How to restore a Model A Ford Tillotson Carburetor
Left: model X or XF. Sometimes they are not marked.
Middle: F1-B that looks like a Zenith. Replacement parts aren't available
Right: Marvel-Scheiber. Replacement parts aren't available.
Left: model X or XF. Sometimes they are not marked.
Middle: F1-B that looks like a Zenith. Replacement parts aren't available
Right: Marvel-Scheiber. Replacement parts aren't available.
Tilly carburetors are easy to restore. Take them apart, soak in carburetor cleaner, bead blast, clean out the passages, replace any broken parts, put in some new gaskets, then road test.
This is the idle circuit. Remove the 3/8inch welch plug, clean, and replace.
There are 2 small holes to clean with a piece of wire here as well.
There are 2 small holes to clean with a piece of wire here as well.
Clean this passage with a piece of wire.
There are 3 lead plugs that need to be taken out to clean the passages. I use an ice pick to pry them out. I replace the plugs with a piece of lead solder pounded in to seal it off.
The large hole in the center is where the main nozzle goes. I have had to drill out about half the main nozzles. The drill bit is the passage for the adjusting needle.
I sand the top of the upper casting and top of the lower casting on a stationary belt sander to flatten them. The upper casting top is often warped when the mounting bolts are over-tightened. This is better than the Zenith which breaks off the ears! if you don't flatten a warped top, it makes quite a squealing noise when you start er up.
Taps: 7/16-20 for float valve, 3/8-24 for main nozzle, 5/16-18 for mounting bolts, 12-32 for main jet, 1/4-32 for idle jet,1/4 pipe for gas inlet. You won't find the 12-32 and 1/4-32 at your local hardware store. I bought mine on Fleabay. A couple of gaskets and the 3/8inch welch plugs
On the left is the float, the choke and throttle shafts. On the right is the float valve, main jet, main nozzle, adjusting needle, idle needle, body screws, mounting bolts and lower plug